16.4 地表波
Section outline
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This immense wall of moving water gives the surfer an amazing ride. The swelling surf raises him up and pushes him forward as though he’s as light as a feather. All he needs to do is keep his balance on the surfboard. The incredible power of the wave will do the rest. Ocean waves like this one are examples of surface waves.
::这一巨大的移动水墙给冲浪者带来了令人惊叹的旅程。 冲浪把他抬起来,把他推向前方,好像他像羽毛一样轻。 他只需要保持冲浪板上的平衡。 海浪的神奇力量将起到其他作用。 像这样的海洋波浪就是地表波的例子。Waves on the Surface
::表面的波浪A surface wave is a wave that travels along the surface of a medium . The medium is the matter through which the wave travels. Ocean waves are the best-known examples of surface waves. They travel on the surface of the water between the ocean and the air.
::海面波是沿着介质表面移动的波。 介质是波经过的事物。 海洋波是最著名的海面波的例子, 海洋波在海面和空气之间的水面上流动 。Q: What do you think causes ocean waves?
::问:你认为什么导致海浪?A: Most ocean waves are caused by wind blowing across the water. Moving air molecules transfer some of their to molecules of ocean water. The energy travels across the surface of the water in waves. The stronger the winds are blowing, the larger the waves are and the more energy they have.
::A: 大部分海浪都是由风吹过水中造成的。 移动的空气分子将部分气分子转移到海洋水分子中。 能量在水面的波浪中流动。 风越强,波浪就越大,能量就越大。How the Medium Moves
::介质如何移动A surface wave is a combination of a and a . A transverse wave is a wave in which particles of the medium move up and down perpendicular to the direction of the wave. A longitudinal wave is a wave in which particles of the medium move parallel to the direction of the wave.
::表面波是一和一的组合。反向波是介质粒子向上和向下移动与波浪方向垂直的波。纵向波是介质粒子与波向平行移动的波。In a surface wave, particles of the medium move up and down as well as back and forth. This gives them an overall circular motion. You can see how the particles move in the Figure .
::在表面波中, 介质的粒子会向上、 向下移动, 以及向后和向后移动。 这会给他们一个整体循环运动。 您可以看到图中粒子是如何移动的 。Why Waves Break
::为什么波浪断裂In deep water, particles of water just move in circles. They don’t actually move closer to shore with the energy of the waves. However, near the shore where the water is shallow, the waves behave differently. Look at the Figure . You can see how the waves start to drag on the bottom in shallow water. This creates that slows down the bottoms of the waves, while the tops of the waves keep moving at the same . The difference in speed causes the waves to get steeper until they topple over and break. The crashing waves carry water onto the shore as surf.
::在深水中,水的粒子只是环状移动。它们实际上不会随着海浪的能量向岸边移动。然而,在水浅的岸边,海浪的表现不同。看看图。你可以看到海浪是如何在浅水中拖到底部的。这造成海浪的底部减慢,而海浪的顶部则继续以同样的速度移动。由于速度的差别,波浪在翻倒和破碎之前会更加陡峭。冲浪的波浪将水作为冲浪运到岸边。Q: In this diagram of a wave breaking near shore, where do you think a surfer would try to catch the wave?
::问:在这个海浪冲近海岸的图中, 你认为冲浪者会在哪里捕捉海浪?A: The surfer would try to catch the wave where it starts to steepen and lean forward toward the shore.
::答:冲浪者会试图赶上浪浪, 冲浪者开始向海岸倾斜和倾斜。Summary
::摘要-
A surface wave is a wave that travels along the surface of a medium. Ocean waves are the best-known examples of surface waves.
::海面波是沿着介质表面波的波。海洋波是最著名的海面波的例子。 -
In a surface wave, particles of the medium move up and down as well as back and forth in an overall circular motion. The particles don’t actually move closer to shore as the waves pass through.
::在表面波中,介质的粒子在整体循环运动中上下移动。 粒子实际上不会随着波浪的通过而向海岸移动。 -
In shallow water close to shore, waves start to drag on the bottom of the water. The bottoms—but not the tops—of the wave slow down because of friction. This causes the waves to steepen until they break and fall over, carrying water onto the shore as surf.
::在靠近海岸的浅水中,海浪开始拖到水底,由于摩擦,海的底部(而不是顶部)减慢了下来,这导致海浪陡峭,直到它们破裂和坠落,将水作为冲浪运到岸边。
Review
::回顾-
What is a surface wave?
::什么是地表波? -
Describe how particles of the medium move in a surface wave.
::描述介质粒子在表面波中如何移动 。 -
Explain how surface waves change when they reach shallow water near shore.
::解释当地表海浪到达岸边浅水面时如何变化。
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A surface wave is a wave that travels along the surface of a medium. Ocean waves are the best-known examples of surface waves.
